{"id":1160,"date":"2026-07-31T17:19:09","date_gmt":"2026-07-31T15:19:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.i8zse.it\/en\/?page_id=1160"},"modified":"2026-07-31T17:19:09","modified_gmt":"2026-07-31T15:19:09","slug":"how-to-build","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/www.i8zse.it\/en\/pixie\/how-to-build\/","title":{"rendered":"How to build"},"content":{"rendered":"

With the theory behind us, it is time to move to practice: physically assembling the Pixie. In this page we will see how to identify the kit components, how to inspect the printed circuit board before starting, and how to perform reliable soldering.<\/p>\n

The kit components<\/h2>\n

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A typical Pixie kit includes: the printed circuit board (PCB), connectors (BNC for the antenna, jacks for the key and headphones), an IC socket, resistors, ceramic and electrolytic capacitors, two transistors, a diode, a crystal and a trimmer. Before starting soldering, it is always a good idea to make an inventory of everything received, comparing it with the bill of materials (BOM) supplied with the kit: it is much easier to identify a missing component at this stage than when the assembly is almost complete. It is also useful to mark the components already identified with a pencil or a check mark on the BOM, avoiding confusion between apparently similar parts.<\/p>\n

The printed circuit board<\/h3>\n

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The printed circuit board (PCB<\/strong>) is the base on which all components will be soldered: the copper tracks printed on the surface provide the electrical connections defined by the schematic, replacing the point-to-point wiring used in older constructions.<\/p>\n

Connectors<\/h3>\n

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The connectors include the BNC connector for the antenna and the two jacks (for the Morse key and the headphones). The socket for the LM386 integrated circuit is optional, but recommended: it allows the IC to be replaced without desoldering it, in case of failure or assembly mistakes.<\/p>\n

Passive components<\/h3>\n

Applying what we learned in the page about passive components, it is now time to identify, one by one, the value and type of each resistor (through the colour code), inductor and ceramic capacitor (through the printed marking), comparing them with the schematic. I suggest soldering the components afterwards in this order. For diodes and electrolytic capacitors it is essential to correctly identify the orientation<\/strong>, since they have a mandatory polarity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\nResistors<\/td>\n		\"\"<\/a>
\nInductors<\/td>\n		\"\"<\/a>
\nCeramic capacitors<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
\"\"<\/a>
\nElectrolytic capacitors<\/td>\n		\"\"<\/a>
\nDiodes<\/td>\n		\"\"<\/a>
\nCrystal<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

Active components<\/h3>\n

For these components as well, in addition to the value, it is essential to correctly identify the orientation<\/strong>. It is also necessary to pay greater attention to avoiding overheating the component during assembly, since excessive heat can seriously damage them. Remember that the two transistors are not interchangeable, and even if they may look identical externally, they can have different electrical characteristics and pin configurations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/a>
\nTransistors<\/td>\n		\"\"<\/a>
\nIntegrated circuit<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

 <\/p>\n

Pay attention to the printed circuit board<\/h2>\n

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Before installing the components, it is useful to carefully inspect the printed circuit board. In particular:<\/p>\n